There are moments that simply can't be shaken off, no matter how cold you were. This one: a February morning on the Estonian coast, the sun barely above the horizon, the temperature well below my personal comfort level—somewhere around minus 20 degrees Celsius. For many years, I've regularly traveled with my wife to her homeland of Estonia. A country that never ceases to amaze me: both modern and deeply rooted in its traditions, with lush nature, a surprisingly diverse music
